Decks get all the attention, and the structure over and around them gets none. Pergolas, carports, verandah posts, privacy screens and pool surrounds are usually the most weathered timber on a property, and the parts that fail first are the ones nobody looks at.
The tops of horizontal members are where it starts
Stand under a pergola and you see the sides and undersides of the beams. Those are the surfaces that get coated properly. The tops of the beams and rafters, which nobody sees, get the sun all day and hold water after rain.
That is where the finish fails, and because it is out of sight it is usually well advanced before anyone notices. By the time there is a problem visible from underneath, the top face has often been bare for a year or two.
Any quote for a pergola should make clear that the top faces are being prepared and coated as thoroughly as the visible ones. It takes longer, it needs a ladder or a platform rather than a brush on a pole, and it is the single thing that decides how long the job lasts.
End grain and post bases
Two other failure points, both predictable:
- Cut ends of beams and rafters. End grain absorbs water many times faster than the face of the timber, and an uncoated or poorly coated end will rot from the inside while the surface still looks sound
- The base of posts, where timber meets concrete, paving or soil. Water sits there, and on a post set directly into the ground it is only a matter of time
Probe both with a screwdriver before any coating goes on. Soft timber at a post base is a repair job, not a painting job, and coating over it wastes the whole exercise. Our guide to timber repair covers what can be saved.
Oil, stain or paint
For pergolas and exposed structural timber, a penetrating oil or semi-transparent stain is usually the better choice than paint, for one practical reason: when it wears, it thins and fades rather than peeling.
A paint film on a horizontal exposed member will eventually lift at an edge, let water underneath and then fail in sheets, and the next job is stripping rather than recoating. An oiled finish needs attention more often, but each round is a wash and a coat.
Paint makes sense where the structure is already painted, where it is attached to a painted house and needs to match, or where the timber is in poor cosmetic condition and you want it hidden. The same logic we set out for decks applies to the frame above them.
Two timber problems specific to this work
New treated pine needs to weather first. The preservative treatment leaves the timber wet and the surface waxy, and a coating applied too early will not bond. Depending on the product and the season, that can mean several months. Coating new pine the week it goes up is one of the most common reasons a pergola finish fails in its first year.
Hardwood bleeds tannin. Merbau in particular leaches a strong reddish-brown tannin for the first year or more, and rain carries it onto whatever is below: paving, render, light-coloured walls. It will stain. New hardwood should be washed down to remove surface tannin before coating, and anything underneath should be protected during the work and the first few rains after it.
Pool surrounds
Everything near a pool is dealing with splash, chlorine or salt, and bare feet.
- Chlorinated and salt water both degrade coatings faster than rain. The splash zone within a couple of metres of the edge is effectively a separate maintenance area
- Slip resistance matters more than appearance. Anything walked on wet and barefoot should have a slip-resistant additive or a textured finish, and glossy sealers on paving are a genuine hazard
- Timber decking and copings around a pool need oiling more often than the same timber elsewhere
- Steel fencing and gates corrode quickly in a salt-chlorinated environment, particularly at welds and fixings
If the pool fence is being repainted, do the preparation but leave the structure alone. Gaps, heights and latch positions are safety compliance items and are not something to alter while you are up there with a brush.
Steel frames and roofing
Plenty of Melbourne pergolas and carports are steel rather than timber, or a mix. New galvanised steel is too smooth and too reactive to take paint directly, and solvent enamel on galvanised zinc fails outright. Our guide to painting Colorbond and galvanised steel covers what actually works.
Polycarbonate roofing sheets should not be painted at all. If they have gone brittle and yellow, they are a replacement item.
Timing
Outdoor timber work needs genuinely dry timber, several clear days and moderate temperatures. In Melbourne that means spring and early autumn are the reliable windows, with mid-summer workable if you avoid coating in direct afternoon heat. Our notes on painting in hot weather explain why the finish suffers if you push it.
If the structure is going to be used over summer, the work wants to be done before it, not during it. Our guide to getting a deck ready for summer sets out the same timeline.
What to expect for maintenance
Exposed horizontal timber is the shortest maintenance cycle on any property. Realistically:
- Oiled pergola beams and rafters: every two to three years on exposed structures, sooner near the bay
- Painted structures: longer between coats, but a bigger job when it does come due
- Pool surrounds and splash zones: shorter again
- Post bases and end grain: worth inspecting annually regardless of when the last coat went on
What we do
- Pergolas, carports, verandahs, screens and outdoor structures, with the top faces done properly
- Timber repair and post base replacement before coating
- Oil, stain and paint systems chosen for the structure rather than by default
- Pool surrounds with slip-resistant finishes in walked-on areas
- Steel frames, posts and fencing with the right primer for the metal
- Tannin wash-down on new hardwood, and protection for surfaces below
We are based in Richmond and work across Melbourne, the bayside suburbs and coastal Victoria. Coastal structures take the worst of it, and our guide to holiday home maintenance covers that pattern.
Call 0404 330 332. If the pergola is more than a few years old, push a screwdriver into the base of a post before you ring and tell us what you find.
š Our Service Areas Across Melbourne, the Mornington Peninsula, Surf Coast & Phillip Island
Melbourne & Bayside
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Richmond
- Expert Painting and Renovation in St Kilda
- Expert Painting and Renovation in South Yarra
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Malvern
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Hawthorn
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Kew
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Balwyn
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Mount Waverley
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Ringwood
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Doncaster
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Hampton
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Frankston
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Mount Eliza
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Mornington
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Mount Martha
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Rosebud
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Sorrento
Phillip Island & Bass Coast
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Flinders
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Somers
- Expert Painting and Renovation in San Remo
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Cape Woolamai
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Cowes
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Coronet Bay
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Tootgarook
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Rye
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Blairgowrie
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Portsea
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Inverloch
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Kilcunda
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Ventnor
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Newhaven
Surf Coast & Bellarine Peninsula
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Geelong
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Torquay
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Ocean Grove
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Barwon Heads
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Anglesea
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Lorne
- Expert Painting and Renovation in Apollo Bay